Volga Boatman Episode 2: Nizhny Novgorod
Nizhny Novgorod. In this provincial trading center (an old Russian saying called St. Petersburg the head, Moscow the heart, and Nizhny Novgorod the wallet of Russia), everyone seems to rest easier. And why not, when the worn red bricks of the Kremlin are echoing your name as marshrutkas (buses that look more like glorified vans) careen by? Here you can fall for the Volga’s simple charm as you stroll along the “Naberezhnaya” promenade, and forget everything but the path of a leaf on the breeze.
I lived in Nizhny all this summer, and a wave of nostalgia hit me along with the scent of the city’s fall glory (a heavy chemical stench soon pushed all other smells aside, as per usual).